THE MASTER WEAVER: JOSEF FIDLER

In Hlinsko, a place where weaving has deep historical roots, Mr. Fidler has revived the heartbeat of the 'Blue Cottage.' He returned the looms to its walls and rediscovered the forgotten art of chenille (žynylka). Mr. Fidler himself refers to chenille as the 'Crown Jewel of Czech Textiles.' The creation of a chenille plaid is a masterfully complex craft that had fallen into a deep sleep; with no one left to pass on the knowledge, Mr. Fidler had to endure a challenging, years-long journey of trial and error to reconstruct the process from scratch.

The story of hand-woven chenille began to be rewritten in 2012, when I first laid eyes on a fabric with distinct ridges that would change my life forever. But I must start from the very beginning. My entire childhood was tied to electric trains. It wasn't just about the model railways; I spent my time sketching future tracks, modeling landscapes, and bringing them to life. Naturally, I was thrilled at the chance to study railway engineering at the Military Vocational School in Valašské Meziříčí. Everything was on track—the entrance exams were behind me, and I was looking forward to a career as a builder. I even thought about university… But then came a harsh awakening from my dream: the mandatory medical examination.

"Because of spinal problems, the dream vanished. What now?" – Josef Fidler

It was during his studies at a vocational college that Josef first encountered weaving. Even then, he felt both a deep interest in the craft and a sense of concern; in the Hlinsko region, the weaving tradition had declined, and with it, the risk that its techniques would be forgotten. This is exactly what happened, specifically in the case of chenille. After his studies, Josef worked as a textile technician. It wasn't until nearly twenty years later that he purchased a loom from Mr. Kubák of Strmilov and began to dedicate himself to weaving—initially, just as a hobby.

His work soon earned him several prestigious awards. Those who know Mr. Fidler are smiling now, because it’s clear that back then, he experienced the kind of rare fortune that meets only the chosen few: he found his true place in the world. He pours his entire heart and soul, his diligence and precision, into his work. With infectious enthusiasm, he grows, harvests, and processes flax, rediscovering paths that had been trampled over—both for chenille and for linen. Meanwhile, he delivers scarves, shawls, and plaids to his many admirers, continues to educate himself, and skillfully shares his story with the public. We are lucky to witness his 'Linen Journey' this year through beautiful photography—thank you! He is a master of his craft and an official Bearer of the Tradition of Folk Craft.

'I have three looms, all custom-made by Zdeněk Kubák from Strmilov. To me, they are living beings, which is why they have names. Junior is the smallest; Rychloběh (The Fast-Runner) has been with me for a few years and can weave over 1,000 patterns; and the latest addition is Maxmilián, named so because, with a width of 140 cm, he is the largest in the workshop.'

For several years now, Mr. Fidler has been weaving scarves and shawls for Tradice customers. He designs the weave so that his precise handiwork stands out perfectly in the chosen material and color. The fringes are tied by hand. To my delight—and slight embarrassment—he named the very first scarves created for Tradice 'Zuzana'.

Photo: Lucie Robinson

In this scarf, alongside cotton and viscose silk, there is also linen. It is visible in the form of small, subtly broken clusters in a grayish tone. It is exactly this detail that makes me love these scarves so much. This year, I requested colored versions in shades of red and blue to harmonize with our fabrics and the nature outside our windows. Mr. Fidler surprised me with scarves of pure crimson and deep navy. They are breathtaking—woven from a blend of cotton and viscose silk.

Zuzana Osako